Its a joy to work with every time. Bokeh is buttery smooth, best you can get from a 135mm. The original poster is right that it was a compromise though and stopping down was necessary for critical sharpness and a better image. You can go lower, but you have to watch your technique. I got many great shots from this lens but also missed ton of shots due manual focus only. You won't get the excessive background blurr -- which for the beginning photographer may actually be a good thing. The best ones listed below serve well with a one stop reduction, and some require two or even three stops. It is good to know that the 200/4 SMC Takumar is good. This is actually worse than just plain obsession with blur. So so far the best that I have used are the 200f2.8L and the 400f5.6L. USM works so quickly and accurately, it puts my 24-70/f2.8L to shame. In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. It starts out very sharp at f/2.0, gets even sharper at f/2.8, and softens only slightly at f/11. One is the price, which starts around $800 for the smallest units, and rapidly climbs into thousands of dollars for larger apertures. [emailprotected]. Don't know what the young man uses as his camera, and if he has tried to keep the noise under control, or even tried to focus on the eyes of the mallard, or the cat (their eyes are not truly in focus). Round one of polls are now open, pick your winners and share your voice. The Canon 135mm f/2 is no less impressive on a full-frame camera. Over the years, Ive shot deep-sky targets at varying focal lengths from 50mm to over 1000mm. Not another article that promotes portraits shot with wide open lens and out of focus highlights in the background. wew.. "If you are a Nikon user, of course have a look at the Nikon AF Nikkor 135mm f/2D DC and compare it to the other lenses mentioned in this article. Great for portraits. A single, 90-second exposure using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. I got mine for $60.00 on Craigslist but seen them on eBay for $100 and less all the time. Sure, the Nifty 50 is an incredible value (and a LOT cheaper), but the 135mm puts you within range of some of the best astrophotography targets in the night sky. Available 03/21/23. Back in 1999, Sony released the F505, their first digital camera with a Carl Zeiss lens. 10/10 (Editor's Choice) Check Price. I use it for everything, landscapes, townscapes, interesting detail, portraits. Really excels as indoor sports lens on a crop camera. It's tiny compared to almost everything else in the 85-135 range, and used properly, it can produce results that hold up to my DC (all other factors being equal such as subject distance, f-stop, lighting, etc.). You just panned the subject for his photos and then turn around and needle thematic for looking into Ericsson. Thanks to you I got a Rokinon 14mm f2.8 and a 24mm f 1.4 and am considering this lens at the moment, but wonder how it compares to the Canon 135 mm f/2. The model I use feels solid and the barrel is constructed with metal. Canon 300/4 ED IF AF (non-IS) Is it possible to get good results on a Baader filter modifed Canon 450D and a good telephoto lens, or do I need to get a good APO? Magical images, great AF, great close focusing abilities. http://www.idyll.com/laney2014 She doesn't look like she is there. The 200f2.8 L is excellent - I am using it right now. The lenses I selected are all affordable prime lenses, easily available on the second-hand market, and adaptable to the EOS system. Just plain black plastic (no interior felt as in newer lens hoods). On the 135/2 all you've got is the bare metal. Focusing should be done on moderately bright stars using the 10x magnified Live View. Thanks.. or.. Clear Skies! Proper composition, light and retouching are much prefferable to crazy gooey bokeh. I liked the extra versatility of the zoom and the ability to shoot at 200mm. Aperture ring. It is really thanks to another commentator pointing out something that finally makes sense out of this mess: This article is by someone who just got his first first telephoto ever, and is writing about how he feels when he is trying it out. While there are certainly pricey 135mm F2 lenses out there (such as the aforementioned Sigma 135mm F1.8 Art, or the Carl Zeiss 135mm) there are a couple that give you extreme value for the money. If you want the best possible image quality, and you must have autofocus, and you don't care if it is a bit heavy (maybe you need it for studio use), buy the Sigma. I hope that this post has provided some practical insight into a popular camera lens for astrophotography. I use it routinely in preference to many other multicoated filters I tested, including the new Hoya MC UV. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. Im currently shooting with a Canon 60D. I am a complete amateur at photography in general and this is all new to me so thank you for all the information and videos. Already wide open this lens produce some high quality photos. In this buying guide weve rounded up all the current interchangeable lens cameras costing around $2000 and recommended the best. Recently, the FAA announced that recreational drone pilots in the USA can request LAANC authorization to fly in controlled airspace at night. It's kinda curious how topsy turvy things have gotten since this article, just 4 years later, I think 135mm is possibly more niche than ever yet Samyang finally delivered an AF version of this concept at a lighter weight for E mount, but also at a higher price. It turns out that this. My first shot was a section of the constellation Sagittarius that included the Lagoon Nebula, and Trifid Nebula. Definetely the most sharpest lens which I have ever seen. Whatever lens you pick in the end, you will make a great purchase. Without the blurb I would have taken it as a 24 hour news studio shot with back projection or a cut and paste layer.The other stuff is really nice though. I love the lens for my modified Sony a6000! (purchased for $900), reviewed August 22nd, 2008 Pentax seems to have put more emphasis than others on keeping the resolution uniform all over the field. The lens is not weather-sealed, so you definitely dont want to leave your camera and lens (and your tracking mount!) i also have the 300mm f4.5 non ED nikkor which is quite nice . It really is about talent, creativity, and vision, not gear. Large emission nebulae like the California Nebula (pictured below) are a great choice for this focal length. Does the bright star reflection bother you? 24/28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm. For example, the legendary Canon 85mm F1.2L weighs in at 1025g, and the Sigma 85mm F1.4 Art isn't too light either at 1130g. Tack sharp at f/2. Second night out with mine right now and I am here in the comments looking for the part number or link! For this reason, a combination of a good light pollution filter, and the use of flat calibration frames are recommended. It has no chromatic aberration, and no hint of star deformities in the corners. If you shoot things in motion on a Canon body, and need some reach without massive bulk, this is the one I recommend. There's literally no story!#6: Purple Flower.The isolation works because it's the only color. If anything the argument in favor of even smaller and lighter 85/1.4s (like the 600g Sigma DN) is stronger than ever, and I say that as someone that loves shooting at 135-150mm. Not only does it let you travel light, but impressive wide field projects are often more successful when captured under a dark sky. canon 135mm f2 astrophotography - fullpackcanva.com Contrasty but not harsh. - in my subjects' skin. Exterem apertures are extrems (wether it's full open or closed) that should be reserved for extrem cases. Target for bortle 9 astrophotography? When all that was available were APS-C crop cameras a 85mm lens provided a near equivalent view angle to the 135mm on a full frame camera. http://www.radiantlite.com/2009/01/canon-135mm-f2l-usm-mini-review.html FULL FRAME TELEPHOTO 135mm F2.0 85 Is a different story, my 85 gets used a lot. I bought it for its bokeh. These lenses can be had on eBay in mint condition for around $70, and are probably the most price efficient optical instrument in the world. In general, prime telephotos should outperform zooms. Now, I have to admit that up to this point, it sounds a little too good to be true. Why would I want a 135/2.0 lens when I have a 135/1.8? Along with improvements in telescope mounts, camera technology, filters, and digital image processing, these have allowed amateurs to produce astrophotographs of nearly professional quality. Besides, adding IS would mean adding extra elements and that would very likely reduce the image quality. Great post; thanks for the detailed information. Please send your photos of the Andromeda galaxy. Ive spent a handful of nights testing this lens in my Bortle Scale Class 6/7 backyard, and my results live up to the hype it gets in terms of astrophotography performance. The spec sheet for the Rokinon 135mm F/2 boasts a number of qualities, with the ones listed below being the most important when it comes to night photography and astro. I ordered this lens on Amazon, utilizing my Amazon Prime membership. At f/32, it's pretty soft, but less so than a lot of lenses at that aperture. Used on a crop body the results are still splendid but you gain on DOF, making it a great combination for wedding/event and ambient/available light. Focus end stop. And it's not the one problem from my L lenses very sad =(, My favourite lens, hands down. Interesting that ancient, low-tech (no ED glass, no special coatings) non-apo telephotos could produce decent results compared to something modern. Its a trade-off, and one that seems to surface time and time again in this hobby. CP+ 2023: Sigma has announced it is bringing its trio of DC DN APS-C prime lenses to Nikon's Z mount: its first lenses for Nikon's mirrorless system. When i just judge by the indicator line as i click through, it seems like its 19 that gets skipped wondering if there is anything more definite? Definitely now on my to-buy list. Also, the newer and much more expensive 200mm F4 SMC Pentax with the K mount is decisively inferior, showing small but annoying red chromatic aberration. Taking images at this focal length from the city will swell issues with gradients, especially when shooting towards the light dome. Diffraction from the cheap EF-s kit zoom lens was uneven. What I see is a photographer who should maybe instead stick to the kit lens, and learn composition first. Backwards compatible (film). It would not surprise me if modern lenses were useable at full aperture. Unfortunately, standard photography lenses are generally poorly corrected for CA at the red end of the spectrum, relying on the human eye's poorer resolution in red than green or blue.
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